What's in Season

A Side for your Soirée: Sweetheart Peppers

Make these caramelized Italian heirlooms an irresistible addition to a summer spread

An illustration of red peppers

Illustration: John Burgoyne


Long and skinny with glossy, blaze-red skin, the Jimmy Nardello looks like the type of pepper that would hang with habaneros on the spice scale. But this Italian heirloom is actually one of the easiest-eating, easiest-cooking peppers at the farmers’ market. “It’s sweet and fruity, similar to a shishito but slightly less herbal and earthy tasting,” says Michael Zentner, owner of the Drifter catering company and Merci restaurant, slated to open in late summer in Charleston, South Carolina. 

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Zentner discovered the pepper while cooking in Boston (the Nardello family brought the seeds to New England from Italy in the late 1800s) and now buys it locally from growers around Charleston. In late summer, the ripe peppers range from five to ten inches long, and they have thin walls, making them ideal for caramelizing on the grill or flattop, which gets them nice and creamy. “Peppers are one of my favorite vegetables for sure,” Zentner says, “and the Jimmy Nardello peppers are especially cool because they’re small enough that you can leave them whole, which I always like to try to do with these special ingredients from a farmers’ market—you want to see what these things are.” 

At home, the peppers will keep for a couple of weeks in the crisper drawer. They’re wonderful stuffed with cheese and then baked or fried, and if you have a bunch to use up, they can be dried and ground to make a sweet, Hungarian-style chile powder. Zentner especially likes to use them in pepper sauces—including this peperonata with shallots and garlic (see recipe) for spooning over pork tenderloin, fish, or most any meat in your grilling rotation. “It’s also really nice on polenta, or even on top of pizza,” he says. “It’s just a really cool summer condiment.”


Ingredients

  • Charred Jimmy Nardello Peperonata (Yield: 8 servings, as a topping)

    • 4 tbsp. olive oil, divided

    • 3 cloves garlic, shaved or very thinly sliced

    • 2 shallots, minced

    • ¼ tsp. smoked paprika

    • 1 tbsp. chile flakes

    • 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

    • Sea salt, to taste

    • 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar

    • 3 lb. Jimmy Nardello peppers

    • Cracked black pepper, to taste

    • 2 tbsp. honey

    • 1 lemon, juice and zest

    • 3 torn basil leaves


Preparation

  1. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat, and add 2 tbsp. olive oil and the garlic. When the garlic starts to brown, stir in shallots, smoked paprika, chile flakes, thyme, and a pinch of sea salt. Cook for a few minutes more until fragrant. Add vinegar and cook for 1 more minute. Remove from heat and set aside.

  2. Preheat a large skillet or a flattop griddle over medium-high heat. In a bowl, toss peppers with 2 tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. sea salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Working in batches, if necessary, place peppers in the skillet or on the griddle and sear on all sides until deeply caramelized, about 6 to 10 minutes. Leave them whole for a pretty presentation or chop them up for more of a chutney.

  3. Combine the caramelized peppers and shallot mixture in a Dutch oven. Add a few turns of black pepper, honey, 1 tbsp. lemon juice, and all the zest. Heat for a couple more minutes until the peppers are uniformly glazed with the honey. Remove from heat and let cool to room tem-perature. Toss in torn basil leaves and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and a drizzle of warm honey. Serve over your favorite grilled meat or fish. Can be stored in the fridge for up to 5 days.

     


Jenny Everett is a contributing editor at Garden & Gun, and has been writing the What’s in Season column since 2009. She has also served as an editor at Women’s Health, espnW, and Popular Science, among other publications. She lives in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina, with her husband, David; children, Sam and Rosie; and a small petting zoo including a labrador retriever, two guinea pigs, a tortoise, and a fish.


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