Born of on-hand supplies and popularized by hard times, traditional Irish soda bread has just four ingredients: flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk. A recipe for the crusty, chewy loaf first appeared in 1836 in an Irish newspaper, and soon, as the potato famine ravaged the country, the bread became a staple in Irish households. Today, raisin- or bacon- or cheddar-studded versions of the classic abound far beyond the Emerald Isle—including in Austin, Texas.

At B.D. Riley’s on Aldrich Street, in the traditionally Irish neighborhood of Mueller just north of downtown, the kitchen bakes the round loaves hot daily to accompany its full Irish breakfast—a hearty meal of two fresh eggs, lean bacon rashers, pork bangers, white and black puddings imported from Ireland, and sliced tomato and sautéed mushrooms.
Beyond breakfast, the dish goes great with soups or stews or can be enjoyed by itself, spread with butter. To make B.D. Riley’s version at home, do use buttermilk, as it and the baking soda act as the leavening agents. And for the very best results, bake it in a cast-iron skillet.