To be a successful quail hunter, you need to be a quick shot. And it just so happens faster is better when it comes to cooking them, too. “By virtue of their size and boniness, quicker methods work best for quail,” says Hugh Acheson, chef-owner of Five & Ten in Athens, Georgia. “And unlike larger game birds, the white and dark meat will cook at about the same time.”
Acheson’s game résumé includes everything from wild boar to pheasant, and his quail braise employs his trademark style: simple, pure, and disciplined. The key to keeping the quail meat moist and tender is in the sear, the preliminary browning of the birds. Using a cast-iron Dutch oven, heat the oil to just below smoking. Then brown the quail on all sides, which not only deepens the flavor but also creates a crust that prevents the birds from steaming in the cooking liquid. “You want the skin to get good and crisp,” the chef says. “Although it will soften again during the braising, the birds will retain that browned goodness.”
There’s no need to get overly complex. Acheson designed this braise to pull the most amount of flavor out of a small number of ingredients. Stock is mixed with hard cider for a lighter, crisper braising liquid, grounded by the earthiness of the fresh herbs and aromatic leeks. The addition of tender-skinned Medjool dates imparts a rich, natural sweetness to the liquid without overpowering the delicate gaminess of the birds. This is a classic hunting meal, Acheson says. “All it takes is one pot and simple ingredients. The quail are up to you.”
