Food & Drink

Sarah McCombie’s Lemon Chess Pie

The Chatham Rabbits singer shares a treasured family recipe and reflects on finding inspiration from the past—and savoring the present

A slice of lemon chess pie

Photo: Sarah McCombie

A slice of lemon chess pie.

Sarah McCombie has an heirloom heart. As one half of the North Carolina roots duo the Chatham Rabbits, she pays homage to a wagon-wheel-worn, red-dirt-stamped music genre with her clawhammer banjo and lilting voice that gives shades of folk heroine Nanci Griffith. She wears handmade skirts and sweaters fished from the closets of grandmothers and great aunts. She even shares a 450-square-foot restored farmhouse with her husband and bandmate, Austin, on a plot of land in Guilford County that’s been in her family since 1753. There, when not tending to a menagerie that includes horses, goats, and a fan-favorite turkey named Cornbread, she’s dragging a metal detector across the earth and digging out arrowheads, centuries-old potsherds, and 1920s TootsieToys. “My great grandfather would have been ten years old,” she says, holding up a weathered matchbox car to the Zoom screen. “I like to imagine he was the one who played with it.”

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Her fascination with history is hard-wired, she says. “I am naturally a very sentimental person and was always saving things when I was little, journaling a lot, taking photos with my little kids’ Polaroid. I’ve always been, for better or worse, obsessed with the past.” 

A man and a woman with guitars sing on stage
Austin and Sarah McCombie of Chatham Rabbits.
photo: Samuel Cooke
Austin and Sarah McCombie of Chatham Rabbits.

That obsession extends to handwritten recipes, the most prized in her collection being a lemon chess pie “from the kitchen of Elizabeth Osborne”—her mother. As far as McCombie knows, the recipe originated in a 1950s newsletter from the Greensboro-based Jefferson Life Insurance Company. But Osborne made it her own by serving it at just about every family gathering. “Once when I was fifteen, we were celebrating my birthday in D.C., and my mom surprised me by bringing all the components to make it in the hotel room,” McCombie recalls. “She made it in the little toaster oven.”

A girl and her mother pose for the camera with a lemon chess pie in a skillet
Celebrating McCombie’s fifteenth birthday with lemon chess pie.
photo: courtesy of Sarah McCombie
Celebrating McCombie’s fifteenth birthday with lemon chess pie.

Fresh off the release of the Chatham Rabbits’ fourth album, Be Real With Me, on February 14, McCombie shared the recipe with G&G. Not that it’s much of a secret. Her mother bought lemon-printed index cards for the express purpose of disseminating it—a sign, perhaps, that her daughter comes by her sentimentality honestly.

A lemon-printed recipe card with a recipe for lemon chess pie
McCombie’s original recipe card from her mother’s kitchen.
photo: Sarah McCombie

“Having that recipe to go back to is so similar to having a song that time-stamps something in your life,” McCombie says. “I can listen to ‘Hallelujah’ by Jeff Buckley and remember lying on the bed with my best friends when I was fourteen and being like, My gosh, we’re so old and mature. It’s the same thing with food—you can remember where you were when you had it and the imagery that conjures up.”

The Jeff Buckley memory, it should be noted, gets a shoutout in Be Real With Me, in a wistful track titled “Childhood Friends.” McCombie may be an old soul, but the new album telegraphs a pointed nostalgia for fleeting youth. The song “Collateral Damage,” for example, speaks to McCombie’s conflicting desire to start a family yet hold on to her freedom, while “Pool Shark’s Table” refuses to apologize for poor decision making. (“This time I was in New Orleans tryin’ to do it right, but those juicy hazy IPAs, they get me every time,” she croons.)

“For all the things I love about the past and revere in people in my ancestry, there is a point, maybe just naturally, where it shifts to, okay, I need to live out some things so the person that comes after me has stories about me,” she explains. 

Just as long as some of those stories include pie.

Get the recipe below, and view the Chatham Rabbits’ upcoming tour dates here.


Ingredients

  • LEMON CHESS PIE

    • 2 cups sugar

    • 2 tbsp. cornmeal

    • 1 tbsp. flour

    • 4 eggs, unbeaten

    • ¼ cup melted butter

    • ¼ cup scalded milk

    • ¼ cup lemon juice

    • 4 tsp. grated lemon rind

    • 1 unbaked pie shell

    • Whipped cream for garnish


Preparation

  1. Mix sugar, cornmeal, and flour. Add eggs one at a time and beat well. Stir in butter, milk, lemon juice, and rind. Mix well. Pour in pastry shell and bake at 350°F for 45 minutes or until done. Can be cut warm, but better to let cool and top with whipped cream.


Elizabeth Florio is digital editor at Garden & Gun. She joined the staff in 2022 after nine years at Atlanta magazine, and she still calls the Peach State home. When she’s not working with words, she’s watching her kids play sports or dreaming up what to plant next in the garden.


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