What's in Season

The Bold Beauty of Blood Oranges

Juice up a winter salad with bright color and striking flavor

An illustration of blood oranges

Illustration: John Burgoyne


From the outside, a blood orange appears to be a typical sweet orange (with a somewhat off-putting name). But slice one open, and you can’t help but be wowed by the gemlike flesh, which can range from deep ruby red to a dark maroon-y purple. That bold, opulent appearance is why the fruit was once reserved for royalty in Sicily. Thankfully, since making their way stateside around the early 1900s, blood oranges have become widely available to citrus lovers, including chef Rob McDaniel’s own version of royalty—his seven-year-old twins, who enjoy sipping the fresh-squeezed juice as a breakfast treat. “The juice is always a fun surprise for them,” says McDaniel, the executive chef and co-owner of Helen, in Birmingham, Alabama. “It’s more than a flavor experience; it’s also visual. At first you don’t know what to expect because of the bright red color. You are expecting orange, but it’s less acidic and a little sweeter.”

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Most Southern-grown blood oranges hail from Texas and Florida. They’re tastiest and most vibrant in the winter months, when cooler temps activate the fruit’s anthocyanin compounds, which deepen the color while sweetening the flavor. When selecting oranges, skip any with soft spots, and always defer to the sniff test. “A good blood orange should have a floral aroma,” McDaniel says. “If it doesn’t have a fragrance, it’s probably underripe.”

With hints of raspberry and cherry, the fruit and juice play well in cakes, tarts, and marmalades. But blood oranges also shine in savory dishes, especially when you reduce the juice to concentrate the flavor for marinades, sauces, and dressings. McDaniel particularly loves to pair them with endive and thinly sliced beets for a beautiful winter salad that incorporates both orange segments and a juice-infused vinaigrette (see recipe). “I really like the color contrast between the oranges and the beets,” he says. “And the sweet flavor from the blood oranges contrasts well with the bitterness from the endive and the earthy flavor of the beets.” It just might be the perfect dish to serve friends who deserve the royal treatment.


Ingredients

  • Blood Orange and Beet Salad (Yield: 8 servings)

  • For the vinaigrette

    • 1 cup blood orange juice (from 3 or 4 blood oranges)

    • ½ tsp. Dijon mustard

    • 2 tbsp. Banyuls vinegar (or other red wine vinegar or champagne vinegar)

    • 1 tbsp. honey

    • 1 tbsp. minced fresh thyme

    • 1 tbsp. minced shallot

    • ⅓ cup canola oil

  • For the salad

    • 2 heads red endive, separated into spears

    • 2 heads Belgian endive, separated into spears

    • Salt and pepper, to taste

    • 3 golf-ball-sized beets (McDaniel recommends a mix of golden, red, and candy-striped), sliced thin (ideally using a mandoline)

    • 3 blood oranges, peel and pith removed and cut into segments

    • ¼ cup chopped smoked or toasted pecans

    • 10 parsley leaves, for garnish


Preparation

  1. Make the vinaigrette: Add juice to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until juice is reduced by half, about 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from heat and cool in the fridge. Once it’s cooled, put juice in a medium bowl and mix with all other ingredients except oil. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, then slowly whisk in oil.

  2. Make the salad: Drizzle endive spears with vinaigrette (go easy; too much will cause wilting), and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on individual salad plates, placing the spears so they don’t stack inside one another. Add a few layers for some height. Next, lightly dress and season the beets. Tuck the blood oranges and beets into the voids created by layering the endive. Sprinkle with pecans, garnish with parsley, and finish with additional vinaigrette and salt and pepper to taste.


Jenny Everett is a contributing editor at Garden & Gun, and has been writing the What’s in Season column since 2009. She has also served as an editor at Women’s Health, espnW, and Popular Science, among other publications. She lives in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina, with her husband, David; children, Sam and Rosie; and a small petting zoo including a labrador retriever, two guinea pigs, a tortoise, and a fish.


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