In his new cookbook, Recipes from the American South, Michael W. Twitty credits the inspiration for this “essential Virginia breakfast dish” to the late Edna Lewis, aka “the grande dame of Southern cooking.”

To amp up the complexity, use a mixture of apple varieties, and try dusting them with kitchen pepper, a Colonial and antebellum-era spice mixture that “adds an extra layer of flavor and fragrance” and “speaks to the transfer of the tastes of Medieval Europe and West Africa into Southern cooking,” Twitty writes. He includes the recipe for the spice blend below, though cinnamon is an acceptable substitute.

Read our Q&A with Twitty here. 

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