Good Eats

Boudin: A Taste of Cajun Country

By David ThierGood EatsNovember 18, 2014

Whether eaten sitting on the hood or sucked out of its casing while searching for some easy-to-miss dirt road, the best accessory for boudin is a car. Often purchased from a convenience store, an over-air conditioned family-run butcher shop, or gas station, the French-named seasoned pork and rice sausage occasionally makes its way to upscale restaurants all over the country, but it’s still rare to see it outside of Louisiana, and preeminent American food writer Calvin Trillin has a notion why:

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Greg Baker's Encyclopedia of Florida Food

By Jed PortmanGood EatsNovember 11, 2014

If your knowledge of Florida food stops at stone crab and citrus, you’re not alone. Greg Baker, of the Refinery in Tampa, has been one of the first chefs in the state to celebrate a rich but  underexplored cuisine built by a diverse collection of characters from a crowded history: barbecue-loving natives, Spanish conquistadors, enslaved Africans, indentured servants from the Mediterranean, swamp-dwelling subsistence farmers, and many others. Next month, he’ll open Fodder & Shine, a restaurant inspired by the history of Florida food—especially the make-do staples of the so-called Florida Crackers, descendants of the state’s earliest white settlers. Expect to see some of these dishes and ingredients on the menu.

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New and Noteworthy: Barbecue on a Stick

By Jed PortmanGood EatsNovember 6, 2014

Within the grease-spotted, sugar-dusted pages of coverage that accompany state fair season each year, you’ll find plenty of treats intended more to shock than to nourish. It’s safe to say that the deep-fried gummy bear and the doughnut cheeseburger will not become staples of the American diet anytime soon. One new state-fair creation, though, just might be able to hold its own away from the flashing lights and carnival barkers.

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The Most Southern Beers on Earth

By Jed PortmanGood EatsNovember 5, 2014

Sean Lilly Wilson, the forty-four-year-old founder of Fullsteam Brewery in Durham, North Carolina, can claim an unusual honor. To the best of his knowledge and ours, he is the only brewer who has ever designed a beer specifically for drinking with fried chicken. Not just any fried chicken, either. His Beasley’s Honey White, a witbier brewed with oats, black pepper, and local honey, is a collaboration with chef Ashley Christensen, made to complement the honey-licked bird at her Raleigh restaurant Beasley’s Chicken + Honey (click here for Christensen's recipe).

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Virginia is for Apple Lovers

By Elizabeth HutchisonGood EatsOctober 30, 2014

Pippin, York, Winesap, and Pink Lady—grab a bushel of Virginia apples while you still can. This weekend is officially last call for you-pickers at many Commonwealth orchards like Carter Mountain and Stribling. Even if you can’t make it to the field, there are plenty of other ways to savor fall’s sweetest flavor for weeks to come.

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Snapshots from the Southern Foodways Symposium in Oxford

By Jessica MischnerGood EatsOctober 29, 2014

In addition to the intellectual highlights of the 17th Annual Southern Foodways Symposium—talks on Hispanics in the kitchen by Randall Keenan, the importance of Mardi Gras Indians by Pableaux Johnson, the state of restaurant integration in Washington, DC, by Todd Kliman, and more—there was a nearly endless supply of soul-filling, pants-tightening meals and snacks, all set against the backdrop of a crystalline autumn weekend in Oxford, Mississippi. Here's a behind-the-scenes look at the event.

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How to Use Black Walnuts

By Jed PortmanGood EatsOctober 28, 2014

“A lot of people will turn their noses up at black walnuts,” says chef John Shields, whose monthly dinners at Riverstead, a bed-and-breakfast in Chilhowie, Virginia, attract diners from as far afield as Washington, D.C., New York, and Chicago. “But I’ve learned to love them over the years. They get a bad rap, and I love showing off what they can be.”

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Five Things We Learned at the SFA Symposium

By Jessica MischnerGood EatsOctober 24, 2014

The 17th Southern Foodways Symposium kicked off last night in Oxford, Mississippi, with a Latin-Southern Nuevo North Carolina Supper spearheaded by Bill Smith of Chapel Hill's Crook's Corner. The theme of the meal reflects the event's larger focus on diversity. Halfway through the first full day's events, here is what I've learned:

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Two Ways to Use Your Leftover Game-Day Barbecue

By Jed PortmanGood EatsOctober 19, 2014

Real, wood-smoked barbecue requires serious quantity in order to make any sense. When prescribed cooking times range from several hours to overnight, you aren’t going to play around with a few chops—no. The twelve or thirteen active hours required to tenderize a whole hog with hot smoke pay off with enough delicious pork to feed the parents, aunts and uncles, cousins, and their friends, or a bunch of hungry tailgaters, with meat left over.

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Eat Wild: Pine-Roasted Potatoes

By Jed PortmanGood EatsOctober 10, 2014

The South is not lacking in native pines. From the longleaf to the slash pine, evergreens line byways from Florida to Kentucky. Given such abundance, you may not be surprised to learn that Southerners have eaten pine in various forms for generations. In the Myrtle Beach area, cooks in turpentine camps once boiled sweet potatoes in murky pine sap. The region’s pine bark stew may take its name from the bygone tradition of simmering it over a smoldering bed of aromatic pine bark, or even a nearly forgotten secret ingredient: pine root. And to the south, at McCrady’s restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina, adventurous diners can now snack on pine-roasted potatoes, a seasonal addition to the bar menu.

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