Good Eats

Weekend Menu: Steven Satterfield's Spring Onion Pizza

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 20, 2015

Blame Paula Deen. Or heck, let's leave her out of this for once. Blame generations of well-meaning chefs and cooks who have defined Southern cooking with adjectives like battered, fried, buttered, and smothered, rather than the most important one of all: fresh. Steven Satterfield, of Miller Union in Atlanta, isn't the first chef to make the case that our diet is rooted in garden soil. But in his new cookbook, he presents a vegetable-centric cuisine that is as appealing in its restraint as a salt-and-peppered slice of tomato, particularly as we lift our heads from the larded stew pots of cold months past to nibble on new harvests of asparagus, peas, and strawberries. Root to Leaf is divided by season, and the spring chapter contains such uncomplicated creations as this spring onion pizza, made with a wholesome whole wheat dough.

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How to Make a Collard Sandwich

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 11, 2015

When Glenn and Dorsey Hunt piled collard greens between pucks of cornbread a decade ago, the fair food vendors from Robeson County, North Carolina, created a new regional classic.

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Five Things We Learned at the 2015 Charleston Wine + Food Festival

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 9, 2015

1. Louisiana isn’t the only place with a culinary Holy Trinity. In Cajun kitchens, the term Holy Trinity refers to onion, bell pepper, and celery. According to chef Vivian Howard, of the Chef and the Farmer in Kinston, North Carolina, her corner of the Tarheel State has its own essential trio: sweet potatoes, turnip greens, and pork, all of which she served with local clams during her Friday night collaboration with Shawn Kelly of High Cotton.

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How to Make Chicken Mull

By Jed PortmanGood EatsFebruary 24, 2015

“I’ve been eating chicken mull from the time I could eat anything,” says Charlotte Griffin, the mayor of Bear Grass, North Carolina. In Martin County, people credit her grandfather with the simple porridge, thickened with crackers and seasoned with salt, pepper, and chile flakes.

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The South's Other Favorite Tea

By Jed PortmanGood EatsFebruary 17, 2015

Russian Tea is not from Russia. At least, not Russian Tea as we Southerners know it. The giftable dry mix that is the stuff of countless mid-century community cookbooks dates back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when American urbanites sipped black tea with lemon and sugar in imitation of upper-class Russians. Within decades, so-called Russian Tea, which was by then often doctored with clove and cinnamon, washed down chicken salad and mixed nuts at meetings of bridge clubs and church groups across the South. In the transformative years following World War II, the basic formula of hot tea with citrus became a showcase for the convenience foods of the Space Age: Tang, powdered lemonade, instant tea. And there, at last, is the Russian Tea we all know and love—layered with love in a Mason jar, and tastefully tied with grosgrain or gingham.

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Gravy Podcast: Brothers, Soldiers, and Farmers

By Jed PortmanGood EatsFebruary 12, 2015

What do farmers and veterans have in common? “If you want to be a farmer today, you’ve got to be a soldier, whether it’s literally or figuratively,” Mike Lewis says. He should know. Lewis took up farming after a stint in the military (and another hosting late-night infomercials), but as he surveyed the troubled landscape of modern-day agriculture, he realized two things: First, it’s hard to start a small farm without help—not just with the crops, but also with complicated legal and business matters. Second, America is short on young farmers. According to government statistics, less than 1% of the population currently farms, and the average age of the modern farmer is fifty-eight. So Lewis’s mission changed, from one of growing greens and squash to one of helping his fellow veterans tend their own patches of land.

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Scattered & Smothered, Covered & Chunked, Too: Today in Southern History

By CJ LotzGood EatsFebruary 9, 2015

About thirty years ago, Waffle House owners in the Atlanta area noticed their cooks dipping into extra toppings on orders of hashbrowns they made for themselves and friends. “They would dice up pieces of ham or add cheese,” says Jim Hosseini, executive vice president who was then managing a Waffle House in Georgia.

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Gravy Podcast: The Jemima Code

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 29, 2015

After Toni Tipton-Martin took a job writing about food and cookbooks at the Los Angeles Times, she realized that none of the books in her office were written by black cooks. Then, a chance encounter with a decades-old volume introduced her to a whole genre of little-known recipe books that bring to life generations of women dismissed in later histories as the help. “In the late eighteenth century, you’re able to see that they possessed a technical and organizational, managerial-type skill set that no one attributes to slaves,” she says.

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Southern Pantry: Lindera Farms Vinegars

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 28, 2015

Dine at Per Se, one of the best-known restaurants in New York City, and you could taste a splash of the Old Dominion on your plate. That same Lindera Farms vinegar might grace dishes at any number of restaurants below the Mason-Dixon line: Minibar in Washington, D.C., Husk in Charleston, or Rhubarb in Asheville, to list just a few prominent examples.

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