Food & Drink

To Roast, Smoke, or Fry Your Thanksgiving Turkey? Three Chefs Make Their Case

Food for thought—and a trio of recipes—from seasoned Nashville restaurateurs
A trio of cooked turkeys

Photo: Mayter Scott; Amy Whidby; Jamie Bochicchio

A roasted, smoked, and fried turkey.

Hide the carving knives. Opinions run strong as to the best way to prepare the most delicious Thanksgiving turkey, and three top Nashville restaurateurs are mincing garlic, but not words, when it comes to the cooking method they believe is superior.

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Raising a drumstick for old-school roasting is Jim Hagy, whose Chef’s Market Cafe & Takeaway provides a whopping 450 gobblers for Nashville-area family feasts each holiday season. “Thanksgiving is a holiday about tradition, and a traditional roasted turkey at the center of the table is the best way to celebrate,” he says.

Hagy’s secret weapon is herb butter—and plenty of it—rubbed under the skin. “That’s a lesson learned from watching people, myself included, ruin a perfectly good turkey by leaving the flavor on the surface,” he says. Another pro tip? Don’t dry out the meat by repeatedly opening the oven door to baste. “The herb butter locks in the moisture under the skin where it belongs—you’ll get a golden, crispy skin that makes all that oven-opening look like a fool’s errand,” he says. “And don’t overlook the lemon and onion stuffed inside. They’re quietly pulling their weight, locking in a hint of flavor.”

Wielding a wishbone for smoking a turkey is Andy Marshall, proprietor of eight Puckett’s Restaurant locations in Tennessee and Alabama, including three in the Nashville area. His guidance begins at the grocery store, though. “When I’m picking out a turkey, I look for a full, round breast and prefer an eighteen- or nineteen-pound bird, plenty big to feed a crowd at the dinner table. If you don’t buy a fresh turkey, think ahead and slowly thaw the bird in your refrigerator—it can take up to three days based on the size.”

Marshall’s barbecue dry-rubbed bird goes into an outdoor smoker for…a long time. “Turkey meat can be a bit bland, so smoking low and slow lends extra flavor while leaving the bird full of natural juices,” he says.

Sure, but why spend all day cooking a turkey when you can fry on the fly, contends Mark Waldo, founder of Waldo’s Chicken & Beer, which started in Nashville in 2019 and has grown to twenty-two locations from Florida to Colorado. “Oven space is competitive on Thanksgiving Day, and roasting is a long process that also dictates the oven temperature. Frying the turkey in the backyard removes the bird from that equation, and is a pretty quick method,” he says. “How else are you going to get that crispy skin but also super tender and juicy meat unless it’s deep-fried in peanut oil? The tenderness of the meat, the rich flavor of butter deep-fried in oil, and the pageantry of the open-flame deep fryer all point to fried turkey for Thanksgiving Day.”

How to choose between these three turkey experts? Check out their full recipes, take an ax to the runners-up, and get ready to gobble up the winner on Thanksgiving Day. After all, you don’t want to test all three methods. Or do you?

Jim Hagy’s Herb Butter–Crusted Roast Turkey

Andy Marshall’s Smoked Dry-Rub Turkey

Mark Waldo’s Deep-Fried Brined Turkey


Jim Hagy’s Herb Butter–Crusted Roast Turkey 

The longtime caterer and restaurateur knows that roasting still rules—but you may be roasting wrong

A man holds a board with a turkey on it

Ingredients

  • Herb Butter–Crusted Roast Turkey

  • For the herb butter

    • 8 tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

    • 4 tbsp. olive oil

    • 8 garlic cloves, minced

    • 3 tbsp. finely chopped sage

    • 3 tbsp. finely chopped rosemary

    • 3 tbsp. finely chopped thyme

    • 4 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

    • 1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

    • ¼ tsp. salt

    • ⅛ tsp. black pepper

  • For the turkey

    • 1 whole turkey (12–14 lb.)

    • Salt and pepper

    • 1 large onion, quartered

    • 4 garlic cloves

    • 1 lemon, quartered

    • 6 sprigs sage

    • 3 sprigs rosemary

    • 4 sprigs thyme


“Roasting, when it’s done right, is the best way to cook a turkey,” says Jim Hagy, who opened Chef’s Market Cafe & Takeaway in Goodlettsville, Tennessee, just north of Nashville, in 1997. “And to roast a turkey right, you need to think about locking in heat and moisture.”

Hagy hits that mark by bypassing frequent basting, which he contends actually dries out the meat from repeatedly opening the oven door, in favor of a liberal application of flavorful herb butter under the turkey skin.

photo: Mayter Scott
Hagy’s butter-smothered roast turkey.

He’s also a big believer in letting a meat thermometer determine when a bird is fully cooked. “Folks like to act like they can tell when a turkey is done by looking at it or poking it, but that’s a fast road to disappointment. Guesswork is fine for some things, but not when you’re feeding people during the holidays,” he says. “I’ve been at this long enough to know that shortcuts don’t cut it. We’ve used the same recipe and perfected this method consistently for decades.”

Preparation

  1. Make the herb butter: In a medium mixing bowl, combine the butter, olive oil, minced garlic, sage, rosemary, thyme, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper. Mix until all the ingredients are well combined. Set aside.

  2. Make the turkey: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the giblets and pat the turkey dry with a clean paper towel. Place the turkey in a large roasting pan. Generously season the inside of the turkey cavity with salt and pepper. Stuff the turkey cavity with the onion, garlic cloves, lemon, sage sprigs, rosemary sprigs, and thyme sprigs. 

  3.  Using your hands, start at the turkey’s neck and rear and gently separate the skin from the flesh, taking care not to tear the skin. Evenly rub the herb butter mixture beneath the skin, ensuring it’s distributed well for maximum flavor. Apply a thin layer on the outside of the turkey as well. Generously season the top of the turkey with additional salt and pepper to enhance overall taste. 

  4. To keep the turkey compact during roasting, tie the legs together with twine and tuck the wing tips under the body. Place the prepared turkey in the preheated oven and roast for approximately 2½ to 3 hours, until a meat thermometer stuck into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F. Once the turkey is done, carefully remove it from the oven and transfer to a cutting board. Cover the turkey loosely with aluminum foil and let it rest for about 20 minutes. Carve and serve while still warm.


Andy Marshall’s Smoked Dry-Rub Turkey

Low and slow is the way to go this Thanksgiving, says the Puckett’s proprietor

A smoked turkey on a table

Ingredients

  • Smoked Dry-Rub Turkey

    • 1 cup melted butter

    • 1 tbsp. barbecue dry rub of choice, plus more

    • 1 whole turkey (18–19 lb.)


“I was born in Memphis, where smoking meats is a cultural rite of passage,” says Andy Marshall, who turned a community grocery store southwest of Nashville into the first Puckett’s Restaurant in 1998, a comfort-food success story that has since spawned eight locations in Tennessee and Alabama.

“We started smoking turkeys for our customers in the late 1990s, which grew from smoking dozens to smoking hundreds,” he says. The low-and-slow method not only amps up flavor but produces a deliciously juicy result.

photo: Courtesy of A. Marshall Hospitality
Marshall at the smoker.

Fans of Marshall’s preparation, which gets a flavor boost from a barbecue dry rub (there’s that Memphis influence again), aren’t limited to Puckett’s patrons. “As long as I can remember, when we have big family holiday gatherings, I’m asked to smoke a turkey,” he says. “I always find room on the smoker and time to do it.”

Preparation

  1. Preheat a smoker to 225°F. Remove the giblets from the turkey cavity. (Save for gravy if desired.) If there is an internal button thermometer, remove and discard. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels.

  2. Stir the barbecue dry rub into the melted butter. Use a meat syringe (available at many supermarkets around Thanksgiving, or from Amazon) to inject 2 oz. of the butter mixture into the front and 2 oz. into the back of both turkey breasts, and 2 oz. into each thigh. Rub the remaining 2 oz. between the skin and breast meat. Generously season the outside and inside of the turkey with more barbecue rub.

  3. Place the turkey in the smoker. (Remove upper rack if necessary to fit.) Add fresh wood and smoke for 3 hours, maintaining a temperature of 225°F. After 3 hours, use a meat thermometer to start checking the temperature in the thigh every 30 minutes. When it hits 165°F and the thickest part of the breast reads at least 155°F, remove the turkey and place aluminum foil over the top. (Don’t wrap the entire bird.) Let rest at room temperature for one hour before carving.


Mark Waldo’s Deep-Fried Brined Turkey

An outdoor fryer cooks the best bird, says the Nashville restaurateur—and also fires up the party

A man pulls a fried turkey out of a pot

Ingredients

  • Deep-Fried Brined Turkey

  • For the brine

    • 2 gallons water

    • 1 cup kosher salt

    • 1 cup molasses

    • 1 cup red wine vinegar

    • 3 oz. garlic

    • ½ cup red pepper flakes

    • ½ cup dried oregano

    • ½ cup peppercorns

    • 4–5 lemons, halved

    • 2–3 oranges, halved

    • ¼ cup onion powder

  • For the turkey

    • 1 whole turkey (about 12 lb.)

    • 16 oz. butter, melted

    • Preferred seasoning for butter

    • 2 gallons peanut oil


“Turkey is like potatoes—pretty bland and boring on its own,” says Mark Waldo, founder of Nashville-based Waldo’s Chicken & Beer. “So when it comes to putting something on the table for Thanksgiving that matches up to the rest of the spread, you don’t stand a chance unless you are deep-frying your turkey.”

Waldo holds equal faith in the power of brining. “We brine all of our chicken in our restaurants, so why would I do any different on Turkey Day?” he says. “Don’t skip this step! Marinating a turkey will set your bird apart from the rest.”

photo: Jamie Bochicchio
Waldo marinates his turkey in a mixture containing red wine vinegar, molasses, and citrus.

For Waldo, firing up an outdoor deep fryer yields benefits beyond just a tasty main course. “I started frying turkeys when I wanted to find a reason to get out of the house on the holiday,” he says. “Then one year I fried up oysters as appetizers, and before long we had a full Bloody Mary bar and music blaring, which had everyone gravitating toward the show. Now everyone feels invested in the process and the thrill of ‘Will Mark burn down the house this year?’”

Preparation

  1. Prep the fryer: Test the fill line by placing the still-packaged turkey into a 30-quart outdoor fryer pot and filling the pot with water until the bird is fully covered. Remove the turkey and note the level of water because that is the point to where peanut oil will be filled when you’re ready to fry. (Note: The fryer should be placed on a flat, non-flammable surface at least 20 feet from any structure.)

  2. Brine the bird: Add the salt and molasses to 2 quarts of the water in a pot on the stovetop and heat until dissolved. Cut off heat and add the rest of the brine ingredients. Let mixture fully cool, then transfer turkey and brine to a large brine bag (available from Amazon). Add the rest of the water and seal the bag. Place into a cooler and cover with ice. Let sit for 24 to 48 hours, draining melted water and replacing ice as needed.

  3. Butter the turkey: Remove the turkey from the brine, drain and dry the cavity with stuffed paper towels to remove excess moisture, and let it rest in the refrigerator for several hours until fully dry. Melt the butter and stir in your preferred seasoning. (Waldo uses a Cajun spice.) Fill a meat syringe with the melted butter mixture and inject all areas of the turkey with as much as possible. (It’s best to do this awhile before frying so that the butter can settle in.)

  4. Season the turkey: Pat the bird again with paper towels, then rub on just enough seasoning to cover the bird, a nice light dusting. Place the turkey onto the fryer’s poultry rack, legs up.

  5. Fry the bird: Fill fryer pot to the noted fill line with peanut oil. Turn on the burner and heat to 325°F on a digital thermometer. Cut off the burner and slowly lower the poultry rack and turkey into the oil, wearing an oven mitt in case the oil splatters. Turn the burner back on and bring the oil temperature back up to 325°F. Cook for 3 or 4 minutes per pound. To remove the bird from the fryer, wear an oven mitt and use a grab hook to pull up the rack slowly, letting the oil drain off the bird. Stick a meat thermometer into the center of a breast to make sure it has reached 165°F. Rest bird for 20 to 30 minutes before carving.


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