A Next-Level Spud

Gathering around the table every evening was a nonnegotiable part of Brandon Chavannes’s upbringing. “We had dinner as a family every night at six thirty. You could set your watch by it,” says the executive chef of the Betty, a seasonally minded restaurant and bar in Atlanta. While those meals featured comforting ingredients such as yams—a reflection of his Jamaican heritage—these days he often reaches for another standout tuber when preparing food for family or friends: the German Butterball potato. An Idaho farmer introduced this relative newcomer in 1988, and it’s also known as the “butterless potato” thanks to its naturally buttery flavor. That richness, combined with its density and creaminess, made it an instant hit among chefs. Chavannes loves to use the yellow-fleshed summer spud in potato salads, mashed potatoes, hash, corn and potato soup, and homemade gnocchi. You can pick up German Butterballs at most summer farmers’ markets or in the “locally grown” section of your grocery store. Make sure there are no soft spots or sprouting eyes and that the skin is bright and unbroken. They’ll keep in a cool, dark place for a couple of weeks, so grab a bunch and start planning your own family feast. Although Chavannes cherishes his childhood dinners, breakfast has become his favorite meal for sharing food with loved ones—and Butterballs fried in a cast-iron skillet and topped with crème fraîche (see recipe) are a rise-and-shine winner. “Breakfast is inherently such a comforting experience,” he says, “and with a little finesse and the right ingredients, it can become something really special.”