Sous-vide cooking can sound more intimidating than it actually is; the process simply requires cooking something very slowly, in a swirling, warm water bath, for an extended period of time. The method can render tough cuts of beef to a melt-in-your-mouth consistency and turn chewy seafood, like octopus, into a protein you can slice with a fork.
But what happens when you give an already tender fruit like a banana the slow-and-low treatment? In the hands of the pastry chef Eka Soenarko, of Jack Rose in New Orleans, it transforms into a delicate, spice-infused topping for desserts such as the restaurant’s rum-spiked butterscotch pudding.
Soenarko first created the pudding, which has since become a crowd favorite at Jack Rose, in order to enter it in the 2024 New Orleans Food & Wine Experience, which took place in early June. Her native Western Java, in Indonesia, inspired the bananas. “We have a dessert there where all the condiments are on top,” she explains. “In this recipe, we put the butterscotch pudding on the bottom, we smear salted caramel on the side of the dish, and then we layer on that sous vide banana, candied almonds, and brandy snap. Then, it’s up to you if you eat it bite by bite or stir it all together.”
If you want to make the banana topping at home but don’t have a sous-vide machine, Soenarko advises placing the bananas and the caramel infusion in a ziplock instead of vacuum bags. “Make sure you suck all the air out and that the bags are sealed up tight,” she says. “Then turn your oven to 150 degrees. In a pan on the stove, warm water to 150 degrees, to match the oven. Place the bags into the warmed water, then put the pan into the oven for twenty minutes. If you want, you can go a bit longer than twenty minutes, which will give even more flavor to the bananas.”